Gonzo Food Critics Review: Pepitos Restaurant




Pepitos Restaurant

By Grace O'Laochdha

03/29/2005

Pearls: 3 out of 5.

I've been going to Pepitos for years, in spite of everything.

Their margaritas aren't bad, but they don't really taste like margaritas. Their enchiladas taste more like cannelloni in tomato sauce. Their tacos are made with flour tortillas. It's weird.

I love guacamole, and their guac used to be really bland, but it's been getting better and better, and the last two times I was there it was very good. And they serve my favorite Mexican beer, Negra Modelo, which isn't always the easiest beer to come by in restaurants here in the Frozen North.

The dish I find most interesting is the "Enchilada Mexicana." The menu says it's the same as their regular enchiladas but with corn tortillas instead of flour, but to me it tastes completely different - the fillings seem spicier and the sauce less like plain canned tomato sauce. So either (a) the menu lies; (b) corn tortillas bring out more flavor, or (c) I'm completely biased in favor of corn because I'm not supposed to eat wheat.

The service is very good, once you get seated. For some reason they never have anyone up front to seat people, and you can stand around for QUITE a while, even when there are plenty of empty tables. But once you're in, the wait staff is great.

Last time I ordered the "Original Taco Basket." That was when I discovered that they use flour tortillas for their tacos. When I explained that I couldn't have wheat flour, the waitress took it back and returned with a huge plate of fixin's and a warmer of corn tortillas. Although the toppings were plain, it was yummy when all put together. Ground beef, tomatoes, homemade pickle relish, beans, rice, cheddar cheese, and iceberg lettuce. (Yes, I know that of all those things, only tomatoes are native to Mexico, or even to the Americas, but it was still good.)

My roommate ordered a bean enchilada. She said the sauce was like plain tomato sauce, but she still cleaned her plate.

Oh, and they have a pretty website. You should go look at it.

South Minneapolis
4820 Chicago Ave. S.
Minneapolis, Minnesota
612-822-2104
http://www.pepitos.net/



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